| Favorite team: | LSU  |
| Location: | Capital City |
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| Number of Posts: | 12126 |
| Registered on: | 10/22/2010 |
| Online Status: | Not Online |
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re: CF Industries building new ammonia facility in Louisiana
Posted by bapple on 4/8/25 at 2:48 pm
quote:
What else will this plant make besides fertilizer? Or what else can the ammonia be used for?
One of the potential technologies involves co-firing the ammonia with coal and cleaning up emissions. I don’t know the full ins and outs of that process but Asian countries have very large coal power plants and see the utility in getting this ammonia, hence their desire to help fund the project.
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re: Bad or failing circuit breaker
Posted by bapple on 4/3/25 at 10:09 pm
quote:
rustyjohnson
All good points made here.
A recent one at my cousin's house was an underground feeder that was slowly degrading and finally faulted. It was an aluminum conductor and they are notorious for degrading rapidly if moisture intrudes past the insulation. It can cause some large voltage drops when a large 240V load kicks on, like an air conditioner, drier, or oven.
Aluminum oxide forms quickly and powders the cable apart. Here's an example I pulled from google images:
So it definitely could be your incoming service but as others have mentioned, make sure all the connections in your panel are tight first. Or have an electrician look at them.
re: Generator advice-- 26kW Kohler vs 26kW Generac and transfer switches
Posted by bapple on 3/30/25 at 9:01 pm
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I've anecdotally heard of Kohler being a more reliable engine, but one dealer mentioned Kohler is "smarter," as in there is more technology in the generator and transfer switch.
I own a Honeywell (Generac) and know most of the functionality of my transfer switch. I looked up the datasheet of a typical 200A Kohler auto transfer switch (ATS) and have a few observations. Link below:
LINK
1. The ATS has a small LED display on the front to show error codes for different types of errors. The Generac doesn't have that but may give error codes through the motor screen or on the control board inside the ATS enclosure. Either way, the Generac won't give you error codes unless you open something.
2. The Kohler ATS allows you to exercise your generator with or without load, meaning, rather than just run the motor, it can also transfer to your house and put load on it. The Generac ATS only transfers during an outage unless you wire a separate switch on the "sensing" wire. For me to run my generator loaded, I have to go flip the switch I wired in.
3. The Kohler exercise cycle is 20 minutes instead of 5 minutes for the Generac. I'm not sure how quickly an air-cooled motor gets up to speed but it runs longer.
4. The Kolher ATS allows you to adjust the delay settings with an optional accessory board. I'm not sure how much control is really needed for a residential application but you can have it start the engine and transfer more quickly than a Generac. Standard delay settings on Generac are 5 seconds to start engine after loss of utility, and 5 more seconds to transfer (10 total). According to the datasheet I'm looking at, you can have the Kohler started and transferred in less than 5 seconds but not sure why you'd want to.
5. The Kohler has an optional alarm module and utility surge protector. These aren't standard but I doubt they are add-ons with the Generac ATS.
In my personal experience, I like having a Generac for universality of parts. About 75% of standby generators on houses are Generac and most service companies can work on them and keep spare equipment in their trucks. I would say Kohler is #2, Cummins #3, and Briggs & Stratton #4 (just my personal opinion). But as someone else has stated, if your preference is Kohler I think it's a safe purchase. Doubt you'll ever have issues.
Hope this helps. :cheers:
re: GFCI tripped out of the blue while running vacuum (hail mary) -- UPDATE FIXED!!
Posted by bapple on 2/28/25 at 9:32 am
quote:
You might have aluminum wiring which is notorious for corroded connections.
This is true. Unless a sealant is used to coat the exposed aluminum, it’s just a matter of time before it oxidizes and starts to turn into powder.
My cousin called me last week because some of the loads in his house weren’t working and turns out he lost one of the hot wires to his panel. Ended up being a faulted underground aluminum wire and is only a 5 year old house in a newer neighborhood. Even one small puncture in the wire can allow moisture to intrude and oxidize the conductor very quickly. I was even surprised the wire was still able to conduct electricity at all before it finally faulted.
re: Are today's HVAC units bigger to the same size units of the past?
Posted by bapple on 2/28/25 at 9:11 am
quote:
He was likely talking about how efficient they are…
Agreed if this is what he’s referencing. Replaced an R22 reciprocating compressor unit a new R410 scroll compressor unit (Rheem 14 seer) and it pulls 1/2 the current of the old one. The old one regularly pulled around 15-18A depending on temperature outside. The new one usually stays below 10A but typically runs around 8.5A. Amazing leap in efficiency.
I also agree with a previous poster who said new units are larger. I imagine the newer ones have a lot more surface area on the coils to transfer heat better.
re: GFCI tripped out of the blue while running vacuum (hail mary) -- UPDATE FIXED!!
Posted by bapple on 2/28/25 at 9:07 am
quote:
but at least the new one displays a solid red led
What does the manual say the red light means? That would possibly point you in the right direction. Your line wires or load wires could have an issue or maybe a short downstream. Without knowing what the red light means it’s hard to diagnose.
re: Home generators
Posted by bapple on 2/23/25 at 5:38 pm
Completely agree that seeing a 32kW liquid cooled unit on the side of a 2000 square foot house always makes me giggle. That is a massive over budget on what is needed. Air cooled ones are fine for standby duty. If they’re looking for prime duty, a liquid cooled would make sense.
The tricky part is that there is not a big difference in price between the higher capacities and the mid tier stuff. I have a 22kW Honeywell and will never get above 50% loaded but I also can add on to my house and have extra capacity to cover for it. There’s also the fact that most places regularly stock the higher capacities but not the middle ones so lead time could also play into it.
quote:
If money is no object, sure a liquid cooled 1800rpm machine that is sized so that the steady state house load is about 75% of the machines rating is optimal.
The tricky part is that there is not a big difference in price between the higher capacities and the mid tier stuff. I have a 22kW Honeywell and will never get above 50% loaded but I also can add on to my house and have extra capacity to cover for it. There’s also the fact that most places regularly stock the higher capacities but not the middle ones so lead time could also play into it.
re: Home generators
Posted by bapple on 2/21/25 at 11:55 pm
As others have mentioned, we need to know a bit more information.
Firstly, how many 240V appliances do you have? Air conditioner(s) is a given but what about cooktop, oven, water heater, dryer? Those will all quickly increase the capacity needed from your generator. As someone else mentioned, the easiest way to find your max current draw is to fire up all those appliances and put a meter on your main feeders coming into your house. And as mentioned by someone else, you can probably utilize a smaller generator if you put a soft starter on your AC unit. I have two 3 ton units both with soft starters and my 22kW Honeywell handles them very well.
Having said all that, the best option is likely a Generac, Kohler, or Cummins air cooled. If you go with a liquid cooled you are going to be way above what you actually need to back up the loads in your house and it will require more maintenance and more $$$.
But since you gave very little detail, you could also rig up a tri-fuel portable if you'd give us an idea of what your electrical loads look like.
Firstly, how many 240V appliances do you have? Air conditioner(s) is a given but what about cooktop, oven, water heater, dryer? Those will all quickly increase the capacity needed from your generator. As someone else mentioned, the easiest way to find your max current draw is to fire up all those appliances and put a meter on your main feeders coming into your house. And as mentioned by someone else, you can probably utilize a smaller generator if you put a soft starter on your AC unit. I have two 3 ton units both with soft starters and my 22kW Honeywell handles them very well.
Having said all that, the best option is likely a Generac, Kohler, or Cummins air cooled. If you go with a liquid cooled you are going to be way above what you actually need to back up the loads in your house and it will require more maintenance and more $$$.
But since you gave very little detail, you could also rig up a tri-fuel portable if you'd give us an idea of what your electrical loads look like.
re: Enviro groups move to block power supply for Meta’s planned Louisiana AI data center
Posted by bapple on 2/19/25 at 1:52 pm
quote:
They need to be building a new nuclear plant. Riverbend is getting old.
I agree but we are probably at a minimum 5-10 years out on a true nuclear buildout. SMRs are the new thing and have a ton of potential but need time to standardize abd construct. That will take a while.
Gas is the cheapest energy we have outside of coal right now. But with how far behind we are with China on building new power stations it wouldn’t surprise me to eventually see a tech company stand their ground a build a new coal generator for it’s reliability and cheap cost. Coal plants can also store months worth of fuel on-site. Modern scrubber systems have cleaned up their emissions significantly.
But can’t be having any of that “cheap” and “reliable” energy for our state.
re: Generator for Heat Pump System?
Posted by bapple on 2/17/25 at 9:52 pm
quote:
If just a regular power outage I can run the furnaces off my smaller generator, they each require around 400W - 500W running with their single speed blowers.
Just gotta make sure to bond the ground and neutral with a jumper to avoid the floating neutral. I've read the control boards in gas furnaces check the bonding between the two and will shut down if the check fails.
re: Generator for Heat Pump System?
Posted by bapple on 2/16/25 at 2:06 pm
quote:
Whats the running load of the heater with the heat strips on?
This. You need to get a worst-case scenario number with the heat strips and blower motor running. Then you can start your calculations for generator sizing.
If you get a propane furnace, you can easily power it with that small inverter generator. Just make sure to bond the neutral and the ground so you don't have a "floating neutral" and it'll run.
re: ViolationInfo Red Light Ticket??
Posted by bapple on 2/10/25 at 8:24 pm
Straight in the trash. Nothing will happen to you other than getting more notices from collection agencies that are out of the state. It is a civil violation, not a criminal one, and they have no proof you received the notice.
re: Garage Door Issue
Posted by bapple on 2/6/25 at 10:17 pm
quote:
Check the springs to make sure they haven't lost tension.
+1. This is the most common that I've seen. I installed my own garage door springs so am comfortable using the torquing bars but the spring can stretch out over time. Usually just one extra 1/4 turn is enough to make it continue and not stop when opening.
re: Need a new dishwasher
Posted by bapple on 2/5/25 at 9:43 pm
LINK
This one has good ratings and matches our oven. When our old LG shits the bed this one will take its place.
From the reviews I've read, when you get over the $600-700 mark you go into a higher level of quality and more years of serviceable life. That doesn't necessarily hold true for every single one of them but the majority of higher-end units will likely have more robust build quality.
I have also heard the same about Bosch and higher end Kitchenaid units standing out over others.
This one has good ratings and matches our oven. When our old LG shits the bed this one will take its place.
From the reviews I've read, when you get over the $600-700 mark you go into a higher level of quality and more years of serviceable life. That doesn't necessarily hold true for every single one of them but the majority of higher-end units will likely have more robust build quality.
I have also heard the same about Bosch and higher end Kitchenaid units standing out over others.
re: Do these Door Armor things really work to slow down door kicking?
Posted by bapple on 2/5/25 at 9:08 pm
quote:
Why is everyone so afraid
Creating barriers to prevent unwanted people from getting close to the beings that I value the most in my life? Yea, that's crazy talk. I'm with you. :lol:
re: Do these Door Armor things really work to slow down door kicking?
Posted by bapple on 2/4/25 at 10:28 pm
If you look at the research that's been done by the USCCA (US concealed carry association) they concluded that any security mechanism that prevents quick entry gives you the most important weapon in the arsenal - time. If it takes considerably longer for a would-be burglar to get into your house, they are lot more likely to move on and choose a different target. A random opportunistic criminal does not want to solve a rubix cube - they want a quick entry and a quick exit. So do everything in your power to make that process more timely and difficult:
1. Get a security system yard sign even if you don't have one
2. Add longer screws to the strike plates (as suggested)
3. Get motion lights and outdoor security cameras
4. Get a dog that will make noise if something is amiss
5. Get a security system
6. Take care of the threat if a criminal is dumb enough to come through that threshold with all the obstacles you placed in front of him/her
Good luck. :cheers:
1. Get a security system yard sign even if you don't have one
2. Add longer screws to the strike plates (as suggested)
3. Get motion lights and outdoor security cameras
4. Get a dog that will make noise if something is amiss
5. Get a security system
6. Take care of the threat if a criminal is dumb enough to come through that threshold with all the obstacles you placed in front of him/her
Good luck. :cheers:
re: Need to replace home standby generator
Posted by bapple on 2/2/25 at 11:16 am
Is is nat gas? Diesel? Propane? Liquid cooled?
Lots of details needed. Most people manage just fine with an air cooled unit since it’s emergency duty only but if you can swing a liquid cooled they don’t burn as much oil and can run for a longer duration. But more maintenance is involved since there is a radiator and cooling system as well. Up to you to make the determination.
Lots of details needed. Most people manage just fine with an air cooled unit since it’s emergency duty only but if you can swing a liquid cooled they don’t burn as much oil and can run for a longer duration. But more maintenance is involved since there is a radiator and cooling system as well. Up to you to make the determination.
re: Thermal Gun recommendations
Posted by bapple on 2/2/25 at 11:13 am
I bought one of the portable thermal cameras (Klein) from Home Depot a while back. It’s been quite useful in diagnosing random things from a cylinder misfire to making sure my furnace was pumping out enough heat during the snow.
LINK
LINK
re: GM's 6.2 & 5.3: Sudden Engine Failure
Posted by bapple on 1/29/25 at 7:56 pm
quote:
I have a 2015 Ram and it has a similar feature where it “knocks out” some of the cylinders for better fuel economy. I’m not mechanically inclined so idk how it differs from a Chevy? My Ram has 120k miles on it and I haven’t had any issues.
I'm assuming you have the Hemi V8? I'll admit my ignorance to Mopar V8s but I imagine the cylinder deactivation is similar to the GM V8s.
If it's actually a V6 I have even less of a clue. Maybe someone here can chime in.
re: GM's 6.2 & 5.3: Sudden Engine Failure
Posted by bapple on 1/28/25 at 11:04 am
quote:
Thanks. So I assume driving a Z71 in trailering mode isn’t a workaround either?
That would essentially be the same as getting the range device. It is only electronically disabled but not mechanically deleted. Still better than having the system operate in 4 cylinder mode constantly but mechanical delete is the best.
quote:
Back to your 2018 Yukon post (all very impressive and informative by the way). How is it doing? Any issues, leaks, etc?
The engine is in great shape. It was already working and not actually broken when I did the delete. But the mechanic told me it looked great internally and obviously all gaskets were replaced so no leaks or anything.
The thing that will probably eventually give me fits is the 10 speed :lol:. They aren’t exactly made for longevity and mine is very finicky about temperature and hard shifting sometimes. The torque converter is fine so as long as it’s shifting and driving normally I’ll just keep rolling until everything fails.
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